Showing posts sorted by date for query sapa. Sort by relevance Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by date for query sapa. Sort by relevance Show all posts

Friday, August 14, 2015

Friday five: more frequently asked questions.

We've already answered the most common question we've been asked as we re-acclimate to life on the mainland and start to catch up with friends and family. Here are five other common questions and their answers, in no particular order...

1. "What was your favorite place?" The long-term traveler's least favorite question - you want us to choose one place out of 800+ days and 17 countries? Impossible!

In short, it's definitely fair to say, we really enjoyed places we knew very little about before visiting.

such as Brasov, Romania

and Cappadocia, Turkey

It's also fair to say that the places we stayed the longest were some of our favorites.

7 days in Porto, Portugal

10 days in Sapa, Vietnam

And finally, it may not be the most exotic answer but all of our farmstays were amazing.

not many people can say they made friends with 80 Nubian goats in Wakefield, Quebec...


... or stomped grapes at an organic winery in Nemcicky, Czech Republic

(The subquestion here is usually, "Was there anywhere you didn't like?" Just a few places. We were really uncomfortable visiting Marrakech and Essaouira in Morocco. These two particular cities drained our patience and trust, and it took us a while to regroup. For very different reasons, we also hope to not spend more than an hour in Bucharest ever again.)

2. "Where would you go back?" We'd love to go back to Transylvania and hike those Carpathian Mountains! We'd also like to visit the countryside of Hungary (but not go back to Budapest). Given the right volunteer opportunity we'd go back to Poland or Cambodia for an extended stay. And there will be more diving in Thailand at some point!

We found something - and often many things - to love about every place we went, and we would absolutely recommend many other specific places for curious travelers, but there are new countries we'd like to visit before returning to most of the other places we've already been.

3. "What's the weirdest thing you ate?" Curse you, Anthony Bourdain, for making this such a common question. Why does no one ask about the tastiest food we ate, or the best home-cooked meals we enjoyed, or the food we really want to find (or figure out how to make ourselves) here in the States?

Okay, fine. Patrick tried a fried tarantula in Phnom Penh and we both ate sautéed whole baby frogs and cow skin salad at our hilltribe village homestay in Thailand. Patrick also tried duck brains at the homestay.

reportedly, the tarantula was "chewy"

While the tarantula was consumed with our Habitat Global Village friends on a bit of a dare, in general we approached all food opportunities with open minds and we absolutely did not want to be those tourists wrinkling their noses at unusual food (especially not when that food was made by our gracious hosts). We also didn't take photos of unusual foods while wandering the streets - fried bug vendors at the night markets had signs requesting $1/photo; many gawking tourists ignored the signs and snapped photos anyway. It was infuriating.

4. "Did you ever get sick?" Sure. Patrick had a few eye infections early on; he eventually stopped wearing his contacts to prevent future issues. I was briefly ill in Saigon (never did figure out what caused that). We both had a "tourist row" pancake in Luang Prabang and spent the next four days laid up with food poisoning in Nong Khiaw.

there are worse places to have to lay around all day

I guess I understand why this is such a common question, and such a fear for some people when they consider international travel. But we didn't really think about it. We ate at food stalls in alleys where dishes were washed in buckets; we drank tap water if hotel staff said it was okay to drink; we usually forgot to wash fruit we bought at the markets. Aside from the few exceptions I mentioned, we were fine... (Although there's a decent chance we contracted something that won't show symptoms for another six months or so. Haha.)

Besides, we were overseas for 19 months. Who doesn't come down with some sort of illness over the course of 19 months?

5. "How did you make money along the way?" We didn't. Before we left we worked, we scrimped, we saved. We lived off our savings on the road, and we continue to live off our savings now. Lots of travelers manage to make a living working on the road. These folks typically have internet-friendly professions (web designers, writers, photographers, etc.) - but quite honestly, I don't know how they work and still manage to enjoy traveling. Keeping up with this blog over the last two years was hard enough!

Any other questions? We're happy to answer them!

Thursday, February 19, 2015

Welcome to 2015, the year of the goat!

Do you have any idea how excited I was to learn that February 19, 2015 marks the start of the Chinese year of the goat?

(Do you know me in even the slightest bit, and/or do you ever read this blog? If you answered "yes" or even "maybe" to one or both of those questions, you probably have quite the idea how excited I was to learn this.)

First things first. We've seen references to the "year of the goat, also known as year of the sheep, ram."

Now, we mean absolutely no offense to our Chinese friends - it's YOUR culture, it's YOUR year, interpret it however you want.

But for the record - THIS is a goat:

smarter than your average bear
(the goat, not Patrick.. actually, Patrick too)

This? NOT A GOAT:

dumb as a box of nails
(the sheep, not Patrick)

Okay, now that we've cleared that up, we hereby bring you GOATS OF THE WORLD! Enjoy.

cheerleader goat
(Eagle Hill, Alberta, Canada)

regal goat
(Quebec City, Canada)

sweetest goat EVAH in the history of all goats
(Wakefield, Quebec, Canada)

adorable plum-eating goats
(Nemcicky, Czech Republic)

curious goats
(Picos de Europa, Spain)

tree-climbing goats
(Essaouria, Morocco)

shy goats
(Phong Nha, Vietnam)

"whatever, I'm eating" goat
(Sapa, Vietnam)

focused goat
(Luang Prabang, Lao)

headbutting goats
(Pai, Thailand)

goat TV
(Mae Sariang, Thailand)

baby goats
(Pratchum Khiri Khan, Thailand)


first Nepalese goats
(Annapurna Circuit, Nepal)

second Nepalese goats
(Annapurna Circuit, Nepal)

third Nepalese goats
(Annapurna Circuit, Nepal)

fourth Nepalese goats
(Annapurna Circuit, Nepal)

fifth Nepalese goats
(Annapurna Circuit, Nepal)

sixth Nepalese goats
(Annapurna Circuit, Nepal)

seventh Nepalese goats
(Annapurna Circuit, Nepal)

pygmy goats
(Waikoloa, Big Island, Hawaii)


smiley goat
(South Point, Big Island, Hawaii)

Goats were strangely absent from our photos from Portugal, Turkey, Cambodia and Australia. That clearly means that we need to go back to those countries and spread the goat love...

Happy 2015!

Saturday, December 13, 2014

One splurge per continent: Australia's Rail Explorer Pass.

We really wanted to relocate a camper from Perth to Adelaide (did you know this is a thing? you can relocate campers and RVs for just a few dollars a day plus the cost of gas? check it out!).

However. Every time we mentioned this idea, people stared at us in horror. "Are you sure that's a good idea?" "It's the most boring drive in the world!" "All you see is green, then brown, then green, then brown, then lots more brown!" "I don't care if you loved driving across the plains and prairies of Canada - this is no drive across the plains and prairies of Canada!" "Umm...have you seen Wolf Creek?"

Granted, the outback is vast and parched, particularly on this stretch of road, and petrol stations and supermarkets are few and far between. If anything went wrong we'd be without mobile phones and would likely be stranded for hours. Oh, and there was that pesky detail about Patrick's drivers license expiring last June...

So we ditched the relo idea and splurged on the Rail Explorer Pass from Great Southern Rail. For just $495 each, we got unlimited travel on The Ghan, Indian Pacific and The Overland for two months - perfect for our timeframe and the places we wanted to visit. Trains only run once or twice a week and two of the three legs take about three days, but we were in no hurry so that was cool. The pass is only valid for the "Red Service" seats, not the sleeper cars, but that was cool too. After 18 months on the road we were used to sleeping in all sorts of conditions. Nothing could be worse than the overnight bus trip from Sapa to Hanoi.

Best of all? This particular pass is only available to foreigners. Purchasing individual tickets for each leg would've cost us almost $3000! Even airline flights would've cost more than the pass, and we would've had to plan much farther in advance if we'd traveled by plane. Sorry, Australian friends, but for once the tourist tax worked in our favor.

Perth to Adelaide

Adelaide to Darwin and back

Adelaide to Melbourne

The Red Service car was fairly comfortable. The car has a few showers and the train staff provide towels, which was a nice perk. We brought our own food and purchased hot water for our instant coffee and tea from the cafe (we weren't supposed to bring our own alcohol - um, riiiiiiiiiight).

homemade breakfast in the cafe

best train snack ever:
cookies with banana, peanut butter and honey from Darwin

no outside alcohol... riiiiiiight

Whenever we passed anything historic or photo-worthy, the train manager would make an announcement and give us a little background on what we were seeing. Sometimes they even had audio programs that gave a lot more context.

the Iron Man Monument marks the one-millionth concrete
rail that replaced the old wooden rails in 1980

the Finke River, wide and usually dry,
thought to be one of the oldest rivers in the world

and the award for the most unimaginative town name goes to...

We also made a few stops along the various routes.

Cook, Australia: population 4
(seriously)

Alice Springs: lest we forget

Katherine: not much going on

Of course, the best part was just watching the scenery. We saw parts of Australia that most Australians will never see. And yes, the ride from Perth to Adelaide is brown-green-brownnnnnn... but it was absolutely gorgeous, possibly our favorite leg of the trains. We also witnessed some stunning lightning storms on the way to Darwin. Photos can't possibly do the landscape justice but here are a few glimpses...

sunset, day one

on the way to Darwin: not Uluru
but definitely awesome big sky

on the way to Darwin: brown green brown
(and a little blue)

close to Darwin

farmlands outside of Melbourne

Every so often the train stopped for several hours and optional tours were available (for a price). The side trip to Katherine Gorge was the only one that was remotely appealing, but because of our timing the river was low and we'd only get about an hour there so we just didn't think it would be worth the extra cost. We also didn't stay over in Alice Springs and head out to Uluru. After all, we had to save some things for next time!

The final numbers:
  • $495 for the ticket
  • 9447 km traveled
  • 152 hours on the train over about 7 days
hour 1

hour 80


hour 152 - we survived!
  • 3 train lines traveled
  • 33 crossword puzzles completed
  • 2 books finished (but at least 5 were started before we got distracted by scenery)
recommended reading
  • 4 bottles of wine consumed
can't bring your own alcohol?
riiiiiiiight

A few down sides to the Red Service:
  • The seats recline quite far, but the armrests don't move so you can't really curl up and get comfortable. There are also no footrests. Sitting in these seats was fine, but sleeping wasn't the most comfortable. (Still not worse than the Sapa-Hanoi overnight bus though!)
  • On one train we were allowed to eat our own food in the cafe during off-hours or just sit in there for a change of scenery; on the other trains we were asked to eat at our seats to save the cafe seats for patrons. That was fine, we got it - but on these trains we also weren't allowed to sit in the cafe when no one else was there. The red seats were alright for a few hours at a time but having alternate seating options over 48 hours would have been really nice.
  • We also weren't supposed to go into the other cars. Apparently "Red Service" patrons aren't worthy enough to mingle with the "Gold" and "Platinum Service" patrons. Hmmmph. Between this rule and the "don't sit in the cafe unless you're buying from the cafe" rule, this meant no escape from the annoying 20-somethings in our car on Darwin-Adelaide leg. Sigh.
Despite those minor issues, we highly recommend this method of travel if you plan to visit Australia for an extended period of time. Please leave a comment or email us directly if you have any specific questions - we would love to share any additional details or suggestions with you. And if you have done one or more of these train trips, leave a comment and let us know about your experience!